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The
120-metre-high (394 feet) sheer chalk escarpment has been
cut away by the River Mole as it flows unceasingly at the
base of Box Hill. Still known as 'The Whites',it is the finest
natural river cliff in the county, if not in southern Britain.
And on it grows truly ancient box woodland that has certainly
survived since the end of the last ice age and may well have
existed before then. The Whites is a sanctuary for these native
box trees, offering them hot. dry growing conditions which
few other British trees would tolerate. It has 40 per cent
of all the naturally occurring box woods in ] the UK. Chalk
has certain characteristics which ; add to the peculiar charm
of Box Hill To '' the north of the scarp, the hill is deeply
[trenched with a series of dry valleys or combes running down
to the Headley Little Switzerland Valley, part of an old tributary
system of the River Mole Over time the river's natural drainage
has subsided to lower levels underground in the porous chalk,
leaving no surface streams in the original narrow, steep-sided
drainage valleys.
Largely due to the nature of the rock, which is easily eroded,
this is a land-scape of soft and smooth curves, of dazzling
whiteness (on almost every slope there are patches of bare
chalk not covered by vegetation and exposed to the weathering
action of rain and frost) and of lush greenness. Chalk rarely
dries out, which is why the downland vegetation remains fresh
and green when plants on other types of soil are parched with
drought. It has even been suggested that there is some quality
in chalk which lends a vividness of colour not seen in the
flowers of other rocks, this being particularly noticeable
in hawk weed rock rose, bird's-foot trefoil, milkwort, squmancywort
and dwarf thistle. Near Box Hill the chalk can be observed
at close quarters in a number of quarries, not least Surrey
County Council's Brockham limeworks. Here, in the main heavy
industry of the North Downs, chalk was quarried and burnt
in kilns to produce lime and cement. The quarry, which can
be seen from the Long Walk, is no longer used for lime extraction
and is now a Site of Special Scientific Interest, but the
scars that are left show the structure of the rock in dramatic
fashion: as well as being minutely porous, it is cracked and
separated all over into layers. It is this network of cracks
and fissures which gives the chalk its great capacity for
underground water storage.
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